La Palapa Rockola

Walking through the West Village on a cold, windy day, I craved some hearty fare. My plan was to head down to No. 26 for a big sandwich on ciabatta, but I happened to notice La Palapa Rockola on the way. It had somehow slipped my mind that the popular East Village Mexican had opened a 6th Avenue outpost.

My stomach growled. The restaurant manager saw me peering intensely into the restaurant window and opened the door. "Why don't you come inside, it's cold out there." That bit of hospitality (and the promise of rice and beans) was enough to change my plans. Happily, I sat down to a cup of Moka D'Oro and looked over the menu.

The specials included an enticing roasted corn soup. On the regular menu were tortas (Mexican sandwiches), assorted quesadillas and tacos stuffed with such goodies as chile-rubbed pork and char-grilled marinated skirt steak, large entrees like enchiladas and shrimp in garlic sauce, and even a 3-course meal that ended with one's choice of Mexican chocolate pudding or flan.

I had a feeling that I'd be eating quite a lot, so I decided not to fill up on the hand-cut tortilla chips. I started with the soup, which was a delicious, creamy puree of sweet roasted corn with a mound of huitlacoche (corn mushrooms) and tangy sour cream floating on top. The hearty soup was almost a meal in itself.

Never one to stop at soup, however, I also ordered a poblano chile quesadilla and a side of beans and rice. Although La Palapa Rockola serves its quesadillas in flour tortillas, my request for a corn tortilla was cheerfully accommodated. The slightly crisp tortilla, cut in quarters, was chock-full of melted cheese and spicy peppers. I dipped it in salsa verde and pico de gallo. The refried black beans were sprinkled with melted queso anejo, and the tomato rice was fragrant with saffron. I was certainly glad I'd stopped in!

La Palapa Rockola: 359 6th Ave., (212) 243-6870.